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Viti da ghiaccio, un lavoro molto ben fatto

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MessaggioInviato: Mer Gen 31, 2018 10:24 pm    Oggetto: Viti da ghiaccio, un lavoro molto ben fatto Rispondi citando

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The Tests

As stated at the beginning of this article "Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In-depth Analysis" by J.Marc Beverly and Stephen W. Attaway1 set out to test several working hypotheses. These were:

Re-bored ice screws are strong* enough to arrest a UIAA** fall
The over driven ice screw in a shorter original hole is strong enough* to take a leader fall on.
Shorter ice screws placed in longer screw holes are as strong as longer ice screws placed in longer screw holes.
Abalkovs are stronger than ice screws.
Abalkov strength is directly related to the area it encompasses rather than orientation.
* The authors stated a figure of 7 – 8Kn as being strong enough. This figure came about based on earlier testing carried out by the same authors in a study titled "Dynamic Shock Load Evaluation of Ice Screws: A Real-World Look".

** The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) uses a test load of 80Kg for a single rope and 55Kg for a half rope s a test mass. The reasoning behind the lower test mass on the half rope is that a half rope should ideally see only 70% of an 80Kg mass in a dynamic fall factor of 1.74. The way the UIAA do the test represents the worst case scenario in climbing as there is no dynamic belay element involved in this test. The peak force during the first drop on the test mass should not exceed 8Kn in the case of the half rope and 12Kn for a single rope.

One of the challenges facing the authors regarding re-bored ice screws was as they state that "Fortunately, there are few case reports for failed re-bored ice screws resulting in injury. The lack of published literature available limits our ability to perform a retrospective study." So although there are few recorded cases of re-bored ice screws failing, climbers tend to assume that if a piece of gear or type of anchor works for one occasion then by extension they believe it will work the next time (I guess the converse also holds true). As the authors add - "Fortune smiles on climbers most of the time, but it is impossible to know how strong is "strong enough" without formal testing where failure is observed".
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